Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Models Pack their Brown Bag Lunches for Acne Studios FW 2017 Menswear

Salmon mohair sweater from Acne Studios FW 2017 Menswear

It’s lunchtime at the office cafeteria. The assortment of managers and employees were ready to eat in style wearing designer Jonny Johansson’s Acne Studio Fall 2017 collection. Note the brown bag lunches and the newspapers rolled up under a man’s arm. In reality, those items are satchels, not lunches packed by the man, the girlfriend/wife or boyfriend/husband.

The headband on the opening model sings the notes of the ballerinos from Bottega Veneta’s Spring 2015 Men’s show.

The long hair and literal rose-colored glasses breathed of the 1970s. The mohair sweater was the color of salmon. The man held his brown bag lunch like Princess Diana used to hold her clutch purse.

Dressed all in camel brown, a man emanated swagger with his moody, Veronica Lake hair. The sporty pullover was injected with a dose of drama thanks to the expansive turndown collar. A Karl Lagerfeld version of this collar turned up on the opening ballerino.

The Mod turtlenecks and large, tinted-lens shades radiated with Audrey Hepburn’s glamorous take on the Mod style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. One of these Mod businessmen even wore Tiffany blue-framed shades as his legs formed scissors.

The shadowed silhouettes of the men stood stark on the walls and full of as much psychological weight as Peter Pan’s shadow.

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Cathy Horyn Uses Light and Dark Language to reveal ‘Easy’ Aesthetic of NYFW

Photographed by Andres Kudacki

A New York magazine report on New York Fashion Week revealed the “easy” American aesthetic of the runway collections by balancing the use of warm, bright words with cold, dark words.

Renowned fashion critic Cathy Horyn’s report “American Fashion Confronts America” featured the above photo of supermodel Natasha Poly backstage at the Michael Kors show as the cover photo for “The Cut” section. Natasha embodied the duality Horyn observed in the collections and imbued in the article’s language. The gold, metallic leopard brocade of her dress “reflected” an “irresistible rich bitch” aura with slick “sun-bleached” hair. She grasped her metallic handbag with “tension.”

Natasha grasped the handbag as if she were squeezing the life’s blood from it. It’s a perfect pose of strength to go with the title “American Fashion Confronts America.” Her power pose evoked the violent side of Horyn’s language connecting to the words “colliding, tension, forceful, coldly, killer and hellholes. Yet the liquidity of her somewhat wet hair and wrap dress exuded ease.

Read these full sentences that use some of the above words and prepare for the profound.

“Simons exposed the enormous opportunity for fashion to begin reflecting the tensions and hopes colliding on the American stage.”

“It was haunting and expansive too—like movies that depict sun-bleached hellholes on the Fourth of July.”

Sunday, March 5, 2017

Paris: Céline Fall/Winter 2017 Ready to Wear

Céline Fall/Winter 2017 in Paris

Look1: According to the beige trench and scarf, it’s Cookie Time, to use that catchphrase from the cult film Troop Beverly Hills.

Look10: The model resembles a young Carine Roitfeld. The influential French fashion editor is present in that face and those pointy boots. She looks like she’s wearing someone else’s clothes. 
Look17: Britney Spears the Ring Leader (Circus) The coat and militant boots point to this. Crack that whip!

Look18: An angsty high schooler with Dakota Johnson’s face. The map motif is wonderful.

Look19: She’s a Western Woman in the leather midi skirt and over-the-knee boots.

Look26: Grace Kelly dyes her hair black.

Look36: Ballerina in rehearsal. Those arm bands and bust exudes elegance and athleticism.

Look40: Italian woman cooks spaghetti in the kitchen, but also wears sharp menswear pieces. The fringe apron and overcoat speak to this.  

Mugler F/W 2017: Jetsons meets 80s

Mugler Fall/Winter 2017 in Paris
The Mugler woman of Fall 2017 wears her hair pulled back like those women from Robert Palmer’s “Irresistible” music video with broad 80s shoulders. Let’s take a trip back to the future.  Check out the looks here

Look 1:  The pointy shoulders and PVC material makes Natasha Poly ready to hang with the Jetsons in this opening look

Look 2: The pleats are so Grecian.

Look 13: The figure skater top.

Look 20: The swimsuit jumpsuit.

Look 23: The pleats would also fit a mermaid’s taste.

Look 25: Holly Golightly at the beginningof her dinner party in the Breakfast at Tiffany’s film.

Look 33: The delicious dragon lady boss

Look 40: She looks like a lawyer, but can lawyers wear jumpsuits?

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Rag & Bone SS17 Menswear

The Rag & Bone SS17 show is a lesson in layering where anorak jackets are paired with tuxedo jackets. Smart doses of bold color are also important. The collection is sporty with a touch of dressy and those baseball caps are everything. I loved them at SS17 Balenciaga show and I love them at Rag & Bone. 

Anorak jacket layered under tuxedo jacket

A bold and blue futuristic coat. The color is so alive. 

A close-fitting shirt layered under a pajama-striped shirt. Just look at that boxy silhouette. Sick!

The tangerine anorak (that looks like a hoodie) layered under army green top coat

The stand collar on this jacket is the money maker.

The collection's bowling elements appear in this look: the bowling shoes and the bag. The pop of the white drawstring of gives me chills.

The thin lines resemble laser beams. Futuristic!

The collegiate sweater is sexy without an undershirt