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| Second look of the show (CREDIT: Vogue.com) |
The
second look of the Dirk Bikkembergs Fall/Winter Menswear show established why
the simple soldier suit was the star of the show. It was the true opening look for me.
There
was dark brown hair and a dark boxy suit. There was milk-white skin and feline
eyes. All those words describe Noomi Rapace’s antihero in Brian De Palma’s film
Passion. Her character Isabelle wears
boxy black suits as a creative genius at an advertising agency in Germany.
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| Isabelle in boxy suit (credit: noomi-rapace.com) |
Masculinity
and minimalism is the core of her look and it is the core of the Dirk
Bikkenbergs show. De Palma described Isabelle as a “soldier,” and it’s the
soldier style that ruled at Dirk Bikkenbergs. The choice of boots to go with
the jean-like trousers is casual and rugged. There are no dainty dandies here.
The
virile athleticism continues with a high-neck zip top layered under a sharkskin
suit. The color contrasting lapels and welt pockets are straight out of the
1950s. Overall, Elvis in his prime comes
to mind.
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| Isabelle in funnel neck military coat (credit: noomi-rapace.com) |
The
funnel neck collar appeared often throughout the collection, and no better than
it did on tan double-breasted jacket. Isabelle wore a coat with a similar
collar that’s undeniably military-influenced. The collar is artfully left
half-open to reveal the tangerine leather dress shirt underneath.
As
the saying goes, there’s no such thing as a coincidence. That explains the fact
that the second to last look of the show is a tan version of the second look of
the show. It’s symmetry at its best.
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| 1950s-inspired suit (credit: Vogue.com) |
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| Funnel neck coat (credit: vogue.com) |
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| Second to last look (credit: vogue.com) |
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