Dirk Bikkembergs F/W Menswear: Simple Soldier Suits

Second look of the show (CREDIT: Vogue.com)

The second look of the Dirk Bikkembergs Fall/Winter Menswear show established why the simple soldier suit was the star of the show. It was the true opening look for me.

There was dark brown hair and a dark boxy suit. There was milk-white skin and feline eyes. All those words describe Noomi Rapace’s antihero in Brian De Palma’s film Passion. Her character Isabelle wears boxy black suits as a creative genius at an advertising agency in Germany.

Isabelle in boxy suit (credit: noomi-rapace.com)

Masculinity and minimalism is the core of her look and it is the core of the Dirk Bikkenbergs show. De Palma described Isabelle as a “soldier,” and it’s the soldier style that ruled at Dirk Bikkenbergs. The choice of boots to go with the jean-like trousers is casual and rugged. There are no dainty dandies here.

The virile athleticism continues with a high-neck zip top layered under a sharkskin suit. The color contrasting lapels and welt pockets are straight out of the 1950s.  Overall, Elvis in his prime comes to mind.

Isabelle in funnel neck military coat (credit: noomi-rapace.com)

The funnel neck collar appeared often throughout the collection, and no better than it did on tan double-breasted jacket. Isabelle wore a coat with a similar collar that’s undeniably military-influenced. The collar is artfully left half-open to reveal the tangerine leather dress shirt underneath.

As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as a coincidence. That explains the fact that the second to last look of the show is a tan version of the second look of the show. It’s symmetry at its best.   

1950s-inspired suit (credit: Vogue.com)

Funnel neck coat (credit: vogue.com)

Second to last look (credit: vogue.com)